Welcome to a display of painted miniatures by Rick. Each entry has an explanation to the figure and the "step by step" instructions. Enjoy!
Showing posts with label Bob Murch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Bob Murch. Show all posts
Saturday, May 05, 2018
RAFM Ghouls - 3892 and 3894
I've recently hunted through my piles, stacks, and drawers full of miniatures looking for ghouls and ghasts to paint up. I found these two old RAFM blisters I probably purchased from the discount bin of a hobby store fifteen years ago. These miniature sculpts are certainly waaaayyyy older than that. I have posted minis going back to the original AD&D packs and it's amazing to see the difference in sculpting over the decades. The lost minis wiki says these were sculpted by Bob Murch but doesn't give a timeframe when they were originally produced.
The packaging technically says they're ghouls; but I painted them up using the ghast schema of a warped and colorful arm like I did with my other bones ghasts. Thinking about it, I probably should have done both arms to give more color to the model. Either way, they're going to be a whole lot of ghastly (or ghouly) fun on my gaming table.
Monday, December 27, 2010
Reaper's Townsfolk IV-C - 2677C




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2011-01-05: update - the above pictures have been swapped out for my new process - the colors are now much more realistic to actual and rather close to being there and picking up the model in hand.
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From Reaper's Townsfolk IV comes the third rogue character. There were so many ways this could have been painted but I wanted to keep it simplified - brownish/red (red is always difficult to digitally photograph - the true color is bit browner than displayed) with blue/green (based upon Reaper's Master Series paint called Cloudy Sea). I did use two different colored browns - gloves and boots a yellow/brown while leather bits were more of a traditional brown.
This was my first utilization of the Reaper Master Series paints from a sample bottle of Cloudy Sea. My first impression is that this is great stuff! I was able to thin down the paint considerably with a bit of water and I had good coverage over a black undercoat.
Painting Instructions for Townsfolk IV-C:
Step 01: Undercoat model with Black primer
Step 02: Use Reaper's Clouded Sea with a dab of Chaos Black on pants
Step 03: Add a bit more of Reaper's Clouded Sea and build pants base
Step 04: Use Reaper's Clouded Sea to start highlights on pants
Step 05: Use Reaper's Clouded Sea with a dab of Skull White on pants highlights
Step 06: Use Terracotta on shirt and hood
Step 07: Use a dab of Chaos Black to Terracotta on shirt/hood shadows
Step 08: Use a 1:1 mix of Terracotta and Blood Red on shirt highlights
Step 09: Use Blood Red for final shirt/hood highlights
Step 10: Use Dark Flesh on face
Step 11: Use mix of Dark Flesh and Bronzed Flesh on face
Step 12: Add Elf Flesh to mix for final highlights on face
Step 13: Use Leprous Brown on gloves and boots
Step 14: Use Devlan Mud wash on gloves and boots
Step 15: Use Leprous Brown to highlight gloves and boots
Step 16: Use mix of Leprous Brown and Golden Yellow-highlight boots/gloves
Step 17: Use Scorched Brown on leather bits
Step 18: Use Snakebite Leather on leather bits
Step 19: Use Vomit Brown as highlight on leather bits
Step 20: Use Boltgun Metal on metal bits
Step 21: Use Chainmail as highlight on metal bits
Step 22: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 23: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 24: Drybrush Skull White on base as final highlights
Friday, December 10, 2010
Townsfolk IV Treasure - 2677B


This is the sacks of treasure from the Townsfolk IV - 2677B from Reaper. I placed this on an old Ral Partha metal monster base. Added a shield I had lying around in the bits box. Added a sword from the Reaper accessories pack. Then added a large battle axe from some bits I won off of ebay years ago. Threw them all together onto the base - added some mud to the base and pockmarked that to look like piles of gold from the Dragon's hoard.
I originally started off painting some of the bags a brown leather, but they ended up blending into the surrounding piles of gold too much. So I used Vallejo's Terracotta and moved up to GW's Red Gore and Blood red on the big bag and some blues on the third. I also played around with some old colored metallics I had from the Reaper Pro Paints line - a Green Steel on the axe, Blue Steel on the sword, and Red Metallic on the shield - added GW's Chainmail to the mix for highlights.
Saturday, October 23, 2010
Reaper's Unknown, Rogue (2677D)




2010-12-13 - UPDATE FROM REAPER'S RON HAWKINS:
Here's the deal. Originally, the pack was going to have the scimitar
wielding mini. But, the figure was replaced with a more "Bandit-y"
feel to it (the Pirate-y looking bandit was converted to the one with
hood and short sword).
I just replaced the photo online with the correct shot. And I looked
in our mold department - all 02677 D molds only have the "correct"
model (short sword).
** Please help in identifying this Reaper miniature - note that the dagger in the left hand was added by me **
Hmmmm... what to say about this miniature - first off it was a test bed for putting a name on the miniature - see below post - I added a scroll style on the front as the "official" name badge.
Then it was a test for some new Vallejo Game Color paints in the brown family which I picked up from Leesburg Hobbies. The matching colors were to GW's scorched brown, bestial brown, and bubonic brown to replace my dried up GW paint pots.
It started off alright as I primered in black. Then used a watered down scorched brown - the opacity was nice with the Vallejo and the results can be seen in the below post regarding the nameplates.
Next I used the bestial brown and I was rather disappointed with the coverage - it wasn't doing what I needed and required multiple layers - more effort than what I was wanting to give or expecting to have to do. I was hoping for more of a coverage experience that I was having with the scorched brown.
Building up to the next layer was bubonic brown and here's where I became really unhappy. If I watered down the paint, the opacity of the paint moved to the edges of the brush and I wasn't getting any coverage with the actual brush stroke - it looked like I was painting railroad tracks. I know it wasn't the brush as I'm painting with Windsor & Newton Series 7 - probably the finest line of brushes for miniature painting. Not watering down the paint is of course too thick and not a real option.
After battling with that for awhile I moved up and added a bit of Vallejo skull white to the mix and walla - beautiful brushstrokes - don't get it - but by that point in time I was overally frusturated - dabbed on some highlights and called it a day.
wielding mini. But, the figure was replaced with a more "Bandit-y"
feel to it (the Pirate-y looking bandit was converted to the one with
hood and short sword).
I just replaced the photo online with the correct shot. And I looked
in our mold department - all 02677 D molds only have the "correct"
model (short sword).
** Please help in identifying this Reaper miniature - note that the dagger in the left hand was added by me **
Hmmmm... what to say about this miniature - first off it was a test bed for putting a name on the miniature - see below post - I added a scroll style on the front as the "official" name badge.
Then it was a test for some new Vallejo Game Color paints in the brown family which I picked up from Leesburg Hobbies. The matching colors were to GW's scorched brown, bestial brown, and bubonic brown to replace my dried up GW paint pots.
It started off alright as I primered in black. Then used a watered down scorched brown - the opacity was nice with the Vallejo and the results can be seen in the below post regarding the nameplates.
Next I used the bestial brown and I was rather disappointed with the coverage - it wasn't doing what I needed and required multiple layers - more effort than what I was wanting to give or expecting to have to do. I was hoping for more of a coverage experience that I was having with the scorched brown.
Building up to the next layer was bubonic brown and here's where I became really unhappy. If I watered down the paint, the opacity of the paint moved to the edges of the brush and I wasn't getting any coverage with the actual brush stroke - it looked like I was painting railroad tracks. I know it wasn't the brush as I'm painting with Windsor & Newton Series 7 - probably the finest line of brushes for miniature painting. Not watering down the paint is of course too thick and not a real option.
After battling with that for awhile I moved up and added a bit of Vallejo skull white to the mix and walla - beautiful brushstrokes - don't get it - but by that point in time I was overally frusturated - dabbed on some highlights and called it a day.
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