Friday, January 06, 2017

Reaper Miniature's Angel of Sorrow - 77362



These were a quick paint job as I need a couple of statues for my upcoming D&D session.  I picked these two up in a single package from my local gaming store Wonkos.

Just to give them a bit of character, I mounted these onto a couple of wooden spools.  Then a quick paint job of Codex Grey followed by a drybrush of Shadow Grey followed by a final drybrush of Skull White.  Next a bit of Scorpion Green was watered down and drizzled on here and there for some aging (although that didn't come out in the pictures very well - but it's definitely noticeable on the table).

While these were the Bones figures, they weren't part of the kickstarter pile.

In honor of opening night of Underworld Blood Wars, the vampire looking statue is named Selene.  And yes, the latest release of Underworld kicked some ass!  It definitely brought the franchise back as Awakening was a bit of a let down.


Sunday, January 01, 2017

Reaper Miniature's Undertaker - 77143



This miniature is from the bones pile - it's the individual model from the Reaper Miniatures set 2845 Townsfolk VI: Gravedigger and Henchman by Bobby Jackson.  While the metal set will set you back $14, the bones figure is $2.50.

Reaper doesn't give the townsfolk models interesting names - just Undertaker in this case.  Therefore I had a little bit of WWE fun - the "Undertaker' there is a performer by the name of Calaway - so, for the models name I shortened it down to Calwy the Undertaker - a bit of humor on my part.

The only proper coat to give this guy is a black coat and black is a difficult color to paint as a main theme as you can't really shade or highlight black.  So what I did here was to use various shades of gray and then wash the entire model with black to give it the effect of a black coat.

Painting instructions for Undertaker:

Step 1: Undercoat model with black paint
Step 2: Use Bronzed Flesh on face
Step 3: Use Regal Blue on sash across the neckline
Step 4: Use Snakebite Leather on the bags, gloves, and shoes
Step 5: Use Graveyard Earth on shirt/undergarments
Step 6: Use Shadow Grey on coat/hat
Step 7: Use Space Wolf Grey to highlight coat/hat
Step 8: Use Bestial Brown on shovel shaft
Step 9: Use Gunmetal on shovel and shoulder pads
Step 10: Liberally washed the entire model with a black wash
Step 11: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 12: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 13: Drybrush Skull White on base
Step 14: Use Chaos Black on sides of base

Oh - and that's back to the bones pile for the first time since last January 2015 - it's been a long 2 years since working the Kickstarter pile!  Been using my paint time to play D&D and the move to Texas was a bit time consuming as well.  Here's hoping to find a few spare hours here and there throughout the 2017 year to paint more bones - Happy New Year's Ya'll!!

Kickstarter paint total: 53 + 1 Undertaker = 54


Monday, December 26, 2016

Reaper Miniature's Tox - 2005



This miniature is awesome and one I've wanted to paint for a very long time.  The Reaper Miniatures metal pewter line called Dark Heaven Legends starts out with serial number 2000.  The above is numbered 2005 which I'm guessing makes it the first Julie Guthrie miniature in the Reaper line as the first four are the four horseman by Richard Kerr.

This model has been hard to come by being an original and long out of their normal production.  I happened to see it at a local game store sitting on the peg shelf and so I nabbed it and made it top priority in the paint queue to get completed.  I really enjoyed painting this one and I'll have to get him in my D&D campaign as either a bad guy or a good NPC sometime soon.

Painting instructions for Tox:

Step 1: Undercoat model with black primer (back to metal so I used the spray primer)
Step 2: Use Bronzed Flesh on face and hands
Step 3: Use Elf Flesh on face and hands for highlights
Step 4: Use Devlan Mud as wash on face and hands to blend it in
Step 5: Use Graveyard Earth on shirt
Step 6: Use mix of Graveyard Earth and Elf flesh to highlight shirt - repeat
Step 6: Use Shadow Grey on pants
Step 7: Use Space Wolf Grey to highlight pants
Step 8: Use Bestial Brown on boots and belt
Step 9: Use Snakebite Leather to highlight boots and belt
Step 10: Use Midnight Blue on robes
Step 11: Use Regal Blue to highlight robes
Step 12: Use Enchanted Blue as final highlights on robes
Step 13: Use Enchanted Blue on magic monster
Step 14: Drybrush Lighting Blue on magic monster
Step 15: Drybrush Ice Blue on magic monster
Step 16: Use Red Gore on wand (tucked in belt)
Step 17: Use Bronze on belt buckle and necklace
Step 18 Wash belt buckle and necklace with Devlan Mud
Step 19: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 20: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 21: Drybrush Skull White on base
Step 22: Use Chaos Black on sides of base

Saturday, December 03, 2016

Reaper Miniature's Barnabas, Human Warrior 77023



Howdy y'all!  We've moved 1,500 miles to Austin, Texas.  It's been awhile since I've dug out the paints and did some painting.  Well, in this case, not actually at home.  There are a number of fantastic hobby shops in the area and one of those was having a Paint and Pint evening.  Pretty cool, the hobby shop Emerald Tavern Games & Cafe has beer, wine, and sandwiches along with lots of games and tables.  They sponsored a night where for $10 you received a pint of beer, a miniature, and the use of any pot of paint you want.


So with a pint of Fuller's and a miniature from Reaper, I did some painting and met some new friends.  I kept the paint job simple with a black undercoat and a drybrush of metal, a touch of gold and some brown on the pouch bags.  Then I had a bit of fun with some blue and red on the shield.

Once home, I put the miniature on a base and gave it the name of Hugues based upon Hugues de Payens (a founding member of the Knights Templar).

Tuesday, January 05, 2016

Reaper Miniature's Bertrand, Monk - 2829


 


Another miniature going to a good home from my bi-weekly Dungeons and Dragons game.  This one is a monk requested by one of the players in the group.  Again, another metal miniature - I liked all the detail stuff - the backpack, sleeping pad, cup, rope, etc.  However I was disappointed in this particular casting with the face - it didn't appear to be quite right nor as crisp as the display image on Reaper's website.

I went for the earthly tones here - so browns with dark green.  I used shadow grey which is a blue/grey for the rope, undergarments, sleeping pad to give it some muted color.

Also, this was sculpted by an artist I don't know - Sylvain Quirion - nor have I seen his/her work prior from Reaper or any other miniature company.

Painting Instructions for Bertrand, Monk:

Step 1: Undercoat model with black primer (back to metal so I used the spray primer)
Step 2: Use Skull White on eyes
Step 3: Use Chaos Black for eyeballs and hair
Step 4: Use Bronzed Flesh on face
Step 5: Add Skull White to Bronzed Flesh for face highlights
Step 5: Use Scorched Brown for robe and staff
Step 6: Use Bestial Brown as most of robe and drybrush onto staff
Step 7: Add Skull White to Bestial Brown for robe highlights
Step 8: Use Catachan Green on the vestment
Step 9: Use Shadow Grey on undergarments, rope, sleeping pad, pouch
Step 10: Add Space Wolf Grey to Shadow Grey for highlights
Step 11: Use Snakebite Leather on backpack, shoes, belt, and staff handholds
Step 12: Use Bleached Bone on the shoulder piece
Step 13: Use Gunmetal on the sword, cup, and clasp piece
Step 14: Wash the entire model with Devlan Mud
Step 15: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 16: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 17: Drybrush Skull White on base
Step 18: Use Chaos Black on sides of base

Saturday, November 28, 2015

Reaper Miniature's Sarah the Seeress - 3354



Yes I am alive and kicking!  Actually I have a few miniatures that I've painted but haven't posted as I've been playing some Dungeons & Dragons 3.5 edition at the local hobby store.  This one I'm posting right away because it's going to go to a good home with one of my fellow players.

This is more heavy metal - really like the metal - the plastic bones are great for what they are (and are easy to carry, more durable, and understandably half or more of the metal price), but the metal has better detail and just feels awesome to have that weight in the hand.

I used a tri-color scheme using the triad of blue, red, and yellow.  The blue was the asked for color of the dress - so the details are balanced using red staff, crystal ball, and bracelet along with a yellow/brown/gold on the leather and ornaments.  The skin tone is warm using tan as a neutral color.

Painting Instructions for Sarah the Seeress:

Step 1: Undercoat model with black primer (back to metal so I used the spray primer)
Step 2: Use Skull White on eyes
Step 3: Use Regal Blue on eyeballs
Step 4: Use Tanned Flesh on skin
Step 5: Mix various amounts of Dwarf Flesh with the Tanned Flesh on skin highlights
Step 6: Wash skin with Devlan Mud
Step 7: Use Regal Blue on dress and spell hand/ball
Step 8: Use mix of Enchanted Blue and Lightning Blue to highlight dress and spell hand/ball
Step 9: Use Skull White on spell hand/ball - I'm trying to make it look like a ball of magic missile is developing and starting to leave the hand
Step 10: Use watered down Regal Blue as a wash on dress and spell hand/ball
Step 11: Use Scab Red on staff, crystal, and bracelet
Step 12: Use mix of Blood Red and Blazing Orange on staff, crystal ball, and bracelet for highlights
Step 13: Add Sunburst Yellow to mix and keep highlighting down on crystal ball
Step 14: Use Bubonic Brown on all leather straps
Step 15: Mix Sunburst Yellow to Bubonic Brown for highlights on leather straps
Step 16: Use Tanned Flesh on book
Step 17: Use Gold on all ornamental items - book pouch, bracelets, staff topper, headband
Step 18: Wash Gold with Devlon Mud
Step 19: Use Shadow Grey on hair
Step 20: Heavy wash hair with Chaos Black
Step 21: Very light drybrush (wetbrush) hair with Shadow Gray and picking out some specific hair lines
Step 22: Use Scab Red on lips - focused on bottom - very little on top
Step 23: Use Skull White on teeth
Step 24: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 25: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 26: Drybrush Skull White on base
Step 27: Use Chaos Black on sides of base

Sunday, March 01, 2015

Dungeons & Dragons Lizard Folk Group - WOC 88284







Finished the other three models this weekend for a total of four.  Nice looking group ready to bash some adventurers heads with a mighty club swing!  Original post for Lizard Folk with painting instructions.

Sunday, January 25, 2015

Dungeons & Dragons Lizard Folk - WOC 88284




Painting metal is so satisfying!  Some more heavy lead with a Jason Weibe sculpt he did for Wizards of the Coast's Dungeons and Dragons official line.  I believe this goes back to early 2000's immediately following the release of D&D v3. I have a number of different models and they all say 2001 on the metal slotta tag.

I really like this model (something I often say with Jason Weibe sculpts) and this is first of four I have in my collection.  I plan on painting all the others as well - they're prepped and ready to go!  I wanted to give this first one the color scheme and then I'll replicate that on the other three.  I based it to closely resemble the paint scheme used on Lizardfolk 35/80 from the Harbinger set of pre-painted models.

Because of the club, the depth of field is a bit difficult for the macro setting in some of the picks - the top row is the traditional side views that I normally post.  The second row of images are quarter turns in front and rear of the miniature.  I think these two pictures give the best representation of the figure as the depth of field is reduced to the width cast of the mold.

Basically I used a base color and a highlight with a wash of the base color watered down to bring the two together for each section of the model.

Painting Instructions for Lizard Folk (Inzixt):

Step 1: Undercoat model with black primer
Step 2: Use Dark Angels Green on all the main skin areas
Step 3: Use Snot Green on all main skin areas
Step 4: Wash all skin areas with watered down Dark Angels Green
Step 5: Use Red Gore on spine
Step 6: Use Blood Red on spine scales
Step 7: Use Golden Yellow as a splash on spine behind head
Step 8: Use Sunburst Yellow as a splash on spine behind head
Step 9: Use Camo Green on belly
Step 10: Use Rotting Flesh on belly
Step 11: Wash belly with watered down Camo Green mixed with Sepia ink
Step 12: Use Scorched Brown on all wood and leather
Step 13: Use Bestial Brown on all wood
Step 14; Use Vomit Brown on all leather
Step 15: Use Vomit Brown on claw nails
Step 16: Use Bleached Bone on claw nails
Step 17: Use Camo Green on wrap around spears
Step 18: Wash wrap around spears with watered down Sepia ink
Step 19: Use Warlock Purple on tongue
Step 20: Use Tentacle Pink on tongue
Step 21: Use Bad Moon Yellow on eyeballs
Step 22: Use Chaos Black for pupils
Step 23: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 24: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 25: Drybrush Skull White on base
Step 26: Use Chaos Black on sides of base

Monday, January 05, 2015

Reaper Miniature's Arrius, Skeletal Warrior - 77158


Back to the Bones.  This model is Bones 77158 which sells for $2.49 and is a duplicate of the metal version 2766 Arrius the Black, Skeletal Champion from the DHL line retailing for $6.99 - sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.

Once again, about 90% of the detail in a Bones miniature at about a third of the cost of metal.  For these Bones lines of figures I'm trying to find the right blend of time and detail and still have a good looking figure for the gaming table.  On the last skeletal knight - the Ghost King - I simply laid a foundation and then used an ink wash to give a semblance of highlights and shadows.

It was suggested to provide a bit of highlighting prior to the wash to give the figure more interest.  While blending 10 layers is overly time consuming for the utilization, I figured a quick contrasting highlight would do the trick.

Therefore, this figure uses the exact same paint scheme and steps as the Ghost King - however, I did add a quick layer of highlights between each step.  On the cape I used Blood Red over Scab Red, on the skull I used Bleached Bone over the Vomit Brown, on the front drapery I used Kommando Khaki over Graveyard Earth and on the stump I used Bestial Brown over Scorched Brown.  Finally, I washed the model multiple times with Devlan Mud deepening the shadows and toning down the overall figure.  I hit the head skull again with a drybrush of Bleached Bone to brighten that up as the "face" becomes a center point of attention.

All in a night's (knights) worth of effort.

Kickstarter paint total: 52 + 1 Arrius, Skeletal Warrior = 53

Sunday, January 04, 2015

Reaper Miniature's Dust Devil - 65072



First miniature painted in 2015!  Excuse the quality of the pictures as this is a tall miniature with a lot of depth due to the four arms with swords.  It was very difficult to get a clear field of focus for the macro photography on this model - and non-macro mode was even worse.

Good getting back to the heavy metal and this is indeed the "heavy" metal as it's from Reaper Miniature's P-65 line that was their brief return to using a lead based alloy.  Prior to Bones, Reaper was looking for a way to reduce the price of miniatures as tin was skyrocketing in price (while the P-65 line is no longer available, Reaper still has their P-65 explanation on the web).  These are great metal models at a reasonable price that are quickly becoming very hard to find.  Luckily I still have a few more I'll be painting.

Great looking model sculpted by Jason Wiebe and I'm looking forward to using this figure on the gaming table.  I kept thinking of that scene from the movie, "The Mummy" where the sand monster forms out of the sand storm.

I sprayed an undercoat of black primer and then used Scorched Brown as my base.  Next was a layer of Graveyard Earth that was about 90% coverage - all but the deepest recessions.  From there I dragged out the drybrush and started with Desert Yellow building layer after layer - first adding Bleached Bone to the mix and then Skull White.

Watered down Sepia ink was added to put depth back in the model - I probably should have watered it down a bit more as the ink toned the model down more than desired.  Starting from a 50/50 mix of Desert Yellow and Skull White I redid the highlights.