Reaper Miniatures Charnel Grub - 77226

 

Enough with dipping experiments - back to straight up layer painting from a base coat to a highlight coat.  The carrion crawler has gone through a few changes from 1st edition through 5th edition of Dungeons and Dragons.  This is Reaper's representation of the 3.x edition of the carrion crawler.  Here's my fifth edition carrion crawler by wizkids. Therefore I used the 3.5 monster manual as my reference material / source of inspiration for my painting.

Because of how the model's feet sit on the base, I actually painted this inverse or from the ground up.  I did the base first, then the feet, then the body, and finished the tentacles last.  For a short time you can catch my second half of painting this classic monster on my twitch channel - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1123805940

Painting instructions for Charnel Grub (used my Vallejo Game Color)...

Step 1: I'm using Stynylrez primer on the bones models - just slop it on and cover everything - it works great!

Step 2: Use Black on base, lower body, and inside mouth

Step 3: Drybrush Cold Grey on rock

Step 4: Drybrush Stonewall Grey on rock

Step 5: Use Dark Green on body and tentacles

Step 6: Use Terracotta on the mandibles

Step 7: Use Parasite Brown as a highlight on the inside of the mandibles

Step 8: Use Warlord Purple on tongue

Step 9: Use Plague Brown on teeth

Step 10: Use Bonewhite as highlight on teeth

Step 11: Use Sick Green on body and tentacles

Step 12: Use Goblin Green on body and tentacles

Step 13: Use Escorpena Green to highlight body and tentacles

Step 14: Use Livery Green to for final highlight on body and tentacles

Step 15: Use mix of Livery Green and Dead White for final highlight on tentacles and top of head

Kickstarter paint total: 153 + 1 Charnel Grub = 154

Bolt Action German

 

This was figure #1 for a Bolt Action German army which was a test bed for the color selections and some more experimentation on dipping (I'm still trying, lol).

Normally I paint fantasy miniatures which are either unique or maybe a small handful of monsters which create an encounter.  My son has a German army for the tabletop war game Bolt Action.  As we have some fifty guys to paint I decided to do one first as a test for a simple color scheme as well as the dip can for shading.

I used Reaper's paints as they had the best colors for the job - a medium grey for the helmet, field grey (which is more green than grey which is historically accurate), military grey for the pants, and black for boots and bits.  Bolt Action is a beer and pretzels game and not a historically accurate game - so my goal was something closely representing in the "it's good enough" category.  After blocking in the colors I then dipped it straight into Vallejo's Game Wash.

It's just too dark.  I've come to the conclusion that you can't really dip it.  

So I did a group of six models and used a mix that was about 1/3 wash and 2/3 water.  Instead of dipping I used a fat 8pt brush to spread the wash onto the model.  That's better.

Since then, we've some more units and we increased the wash a bit somewhere between 40/60 and 50/50.  That appears to be the right amount for this Vallejo Game Wash and not obliterating the model.

Reaper Miniatures Aeris, Female Elf Ranger - 77405

 

This was an interesting experiment or I should say continued experiment with Vallejo's Game Wash Dipping Formula.  My first go with the product was the Wizkids Bone Naga and then the second go was the Reaper Giant Wererat whereby I tweaked the application with the idea of watering it down, using a brush, being more specific and controlled in the wash.  I wanted to go back to the idea of dipping a model into the product as the product has "Dipping" in the name and I had a thought that this might work better with a "normal" sized miniature which has been block painted.  

By block painting I mean no highlights nor shadows - just painting sections or blocks of the miniature with a single color - face is pale, hair is yellow, cloak is green, leather is brown, pants are purple, and bow is yellow/brown.  This miniature was one painted by my wife at the beginning of a Dungeons and Dragons campaign and therefore was the perfect test bed.  No fancy highlights, shadows, blending, glazing, drybrushing or anything else - this is a simple as it gets - open a pot of paint and use that to color block each feature of the mini (almost like a coloring book and a box of crayons).  

Done with care, it can look quite good on the tabletop and it's easy for beginners.  I love teaching the art of miniature painting and my players love painting their character at the start of a campaign.  And that works on the tabletop.  So here's the test - can it look better with almost no effort other than dip in a can of wash?  So that's what I did - I dipped the model upside down in the wash - shook/tapped off as much of the wash as possible over the pot - then stood the model upright and let dry with no additional touches by me.  

The result - not bad!  The dip provided the concept of blacklining by residing in the areas between blocks of features (example the face from the hair and the face from the cloak).  It provided depth and dimension in the hair, fur on the cloak, and the leather armor and boots as well as facial features such as eyes, nose and mouth.  By standing the model upright to dry the remaining wash naturally went to the downwards side of the model and thereby produced the shadows one would expect.  The bad... it's a bit sloppy and the maybe I could have used a paintbrush with some water to take away the wash off the bow for better results.  Additionally it dries with a super high sheen which can be overcome with a can of matte finish and that will protect the model through all the game day abuse.  

Overall, it's a great way to provide quick depth to a model for the game table with practically no effort.  I have to paint about a 50 unit army of Germans for the beer and pretzel tabletop game Bolt Action - a very simple WWII game that's lots of fun to play with friends, a few beers and snacks.  I think a simple paint job on each model and a dip in the game wash pond is going to be the ticket for success - look forward to future blog posts on that!

This came out of the pile of bones Kickstarter minis...

Kickstarter paint total: 152 + 1 Elf Ranger = 153

Reaper Miniatures Giant Wererat - 77292

 

Quickly following up on the Bone Naga; I finished this up mid-week and did a stream on twitch which, for the next couple of weeks, you can catch the 2 hour session - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1080162462

This model was ideal for trying out the Vallejo Game Wash Dipping Formula but with the adjustments of stirring the pot, watering down the mix, and using a brush versus dipping the entire model.

Painting instructions for Giant Wererat (used my Vallejo Game Color)...

Step 1:  I'm using Stynylrez primer on the bones models - just slop it on and cover everything - it works great!
Step 2: Use Charred Brown over the entire fur (almost the entire model)
Step 3: Drybrush Beasty Brown over the entire fur
Step 4: Drybrush Scrofulous Brown over the entire fur
Step 5: Wash with Game Wash Dipping Formula (66/33 mix with brush - don't dip) over entire fur
Step 6: Use Tan on the flesh bits - hands, tail, mouth, nose
Step 7: Wash with Game Wash Dipping Formula (66/33 mix with brush - don't dip) over all flesh
Step 8: Use Leather Brown on the teeth and as highlights on the face fur
Step 9: Use Bonewhite on the teeth leaving the Leather Brown as the root
Step 10: Use Dead White on the teeth as final highlight
Step 11: Use Black on eyes and in the recesses of the exposed muscles/guts
Step 12: Use Scarlett Red on tongue, claws/nails, and exposed muscles/guts
Step 13: Use mix of Scarlett Red and Tan and highlight tongue and on the exposed muscles/guts
Step 14: Use tan as final highlight on exposed muscles/guts
Step 15: Use Bloody Red on eyes and highlights on claws/nails
Step 16: Use Hot Orange as final highlights on claws/nails
Step 17: Use Black on the belt chain
Step 18: Use Gunmetal Metal on belt chain
Step 19: Wash with Game Wash Dipping Formula (66/33 mix with brush - don't dip) over belt chain
Step 20: Use Camouflage Green on loin cloth
Step 21: Use mix of Camouflage Green and Bone White on loin cloth as highlights

Kickstarter paint total: 151 + 1 Giant Wererat = 152

WizKids Bone Naga - WZK90086

 

This was an "interesting" experience/experiment.  I'm always on the quest for well painted miniatures for tabletop gameplay that can be painted quickly.  To that end, one of the techniques I've heard quite a bit about is "dipping" whereby you dip the painted miniature in a wash that then gives it depth.  Vallejo had recently come out with a very large pot they call "Vallejo Game Wash Dipping Formula".  The instructions say it's the perfect finish for miniatures... quickly creates shadows and instantly brings volume and depth.  Furthermore it says to shake well before using.

I figured the perfect miniature to test this on was a skeletal model - right - how easy - throw some layers of bone on, dip, and done!  Well, my experience wasn't great - maybe I'm just too picky but the end result was a mottled mess.

For the next few weeks you can catch it all on twitch - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1077080014

I used my traditional layering technique going from a desert yellow to bone to white.  I was super happy with the look I was getting - if anything, maybe it just needed a wash of the base color desert yellow just to smooth out the layers.  However I went with giving it the dip - here are my thoughts...

• Instructions were to shake - bad idea James Bond - the wash becomes an air bubble mess - I think it would have been better off stirred.  Will stir as needed next time.
• Instructions say to dip the model into the pot - it came out a big bubbly mess with a thick wash that sticks on everything including hands (and I've washed five times and it's still on the hands).  It dries rather quickly and is a bit sticky until it does so.  The directions also say to remove the excess quickly - which I did using a number 8 brush and I did a combination of pulling the wash off as well as watering it down.  Next time, no dipping... I'll try using a brush along with thinning it down with a bit of water so it's more like a true wash.
• The wash mottled the model - because of the centipede feet, the wash just clung to each bony protrusion and darkened/blacked-out the model's highlights with a wash that was bubbly (because of the shaking we did initially to the pot) and hard to control because it was drying faster than I could get the excess pulled off or watered down.  Additionally the pooling of the wash doesn't necessarily go where you want it.
• The bottle says quick and easy way to achieve realistic shading effects - I think it just made the model very monochromatic in the black and white scale.

I know people have written blogs and rant and rave over YouTube on how awesome dipping is to quickly bring shadows and a finished look to miniatures. Maybe bone/skeletal critters aren't the answer for this wash technique and color?  Also, the model itself might not be conducive to dipping whereas a more solid piece without fifty protrusions is a better choice?  Also, I think the idea is to paint at the highlight layer, dip, and go.  I'll keep testing - but please put any thoughts in the comments below.

Painting instructions for Bone Naga (used Vallejo)...

Step 1: No need to primer - already done.
Step 2: Use Desert Brown to base model
Step 3: Use mix of Desert Brown and Bonewhite for a layer of highlights
Step 4: Use Bonewhite for the main highlights
Step 5: Use mix of Bonewhite and Dead White for final highlights
Step 6: Stop here or us a wash of Desert Brown to tone down the contrast if needed - Game Wash dipping formula not recommended

I hit my model up with a protective coating of matte clear and it will look great on the game table and I'm sure I'll still get lots of oohs and aahhs.  

WizKids Red Slaad - WZK90251

 

This model is going to be sold on it's own in the summer of 2021, however I picked it up as part of the WZK90292 product title D&D Nolzur's Marvellous Miniatures Red Slaad Paint Night Kit - wow, quite a title!  The kit comes with a dozen pots of Vallejo paint, two paint brushes, a water cup, and the Red Slaad miniature itself.  I picked this kit up at a hobby store in Dallas a few months ago when we were there for my son's hockey tournament.  I've been wanting to paint this up as I just love these new Slaad models by Wizkids.

I did paint this as part of a Twitch stream - I think Twitch only keeps videos up for about two weeks so you can watch the 4 hour stream until about mid July - https://www.twitch.tv/videos/1068407028

Painting instructions for Red Slaad (used the Vallejo paints in the kit)...

Step 1: No need to primer - already done

Step 2: Use Black Red as the base coat on the entire model

Step 3: Use Black on the base, claws, spikes, mouth, and eyes

Step 4: Use Heavy Red to layer on the muscles and plating

Step 5: Use mix of Heavy Red and Vermillion to highlight the muscles, plating and eyes

Step 6: Use Vermillion for final highlight on muscles, plating, and eyes

Step 7: Use Parasite Brown on the teeth

Step 8: Use Light Flesh on teeth

Step 9: Use Hexed Lichen on claws

Step 10: Use mix of Hexed Lichen and Light Flesh on claws for final highlight

Step 11: Use Bestial Brown as a wet drybrush onto the base

Reaper Miniatures Attic Whisperer - 60125

 

The Pathfinder Attic Whisperer is one of my favorite monsters.  It was originally in the very first Pathfinder Adventure Path module Burnt Offerings as the beginning of the Rise of the Runelords Adventure Path.  

A quick hit down history lane... 

Paizo was the sub-contracted publisher of Dragon magazine and Dungeon magazine.  One of Paizo's innovations to Dragon/Dungeon was the concept of the Adventure Path with Shackled City being the first where they would have twelve monthly Dungeon adventures be supported by content in Dragon.  Next was Age of Worms and then Savage Tide.  

In secret, WoTC wanted to go a different direction (4e and online publishing of supported materials meaning no more Dragon/Dungeon magazine). While 3.5e was still strong, they started to kill off their supported vendors and thus they ended their relationship with Paizo.  In order to survive as a publishing company, Paizo came up with an entirely new campaign world Golarion and the Pathfinder Chronicles Adventure Path.  Thus begins Rise of the Runelords which is technically their fourth adventure path concept but the first as a Pathfinder Chronicles Adventure Path and was written in 3.5e (it would be another year before WoTC kills 3.5 for 4e and Pathfinder becoming its own game).

Now for the fun part, although the Attic Whisperer was introduced in Burnt Offerings it wasn't actually used!  It was part of the Pathfinder Bestiary in the back of the module with a note that you could use it as a side adventure at the Turandarok Academy which was a school and orphanage in Sandpoint ran by a retired adventurer.  However, a better use would be in part 2, the Skinsaw Murders has the party in a creepy old mansion - that's where I use the Attic Whisperer.  The Haunted Mansion in 5e's Ghosts of Saltmarsh is another.

As to the mini itself - this is a wonderful sculpt and you get 2 in the package.  It's been a bit over a year since I last painted on metal.

Painting instructions for Attic Whisperer (used Reaper paints)...

Step 1: Undercoat model with black primer (back to metal so I used the spray primer)
Step 2: Use Yellowed Bone on skeletal bits
Step 3: Use Clouded Sea or Meadow Green on clothing
Step 4: Use Black Wash (Vallejo) on clothing
Step 5: Mix Yellowed Bone into either Clouded Sea or Meadow Green for highlights on clothing
Step 6: Use Polished Leather on teddy bear
Step 7: Use Flesh Wash (Vallejo) on skeletal bits
Step 8: Use Dragon Black on base

Reaper Miniatures Kallaguk, Troll King - 77267

 

So much to say about the miniature - this is just a fantastic fun piece and I can't wait to bring this onto the tabletop - it's going to be so much fun.  It's a Jason Wiebe sculpt - what more can I say, I have hundreds of miniatures still waiting to be painted on the shelf from various previous kickstarters.  I pull stuff off the shelf that I think looks cool and useful for my games - they just happen to be Wiebe sculpts.

I started painting this one many many many moons ago and it sat around on the table and received paint whenever the thought hit me to apply some leftover paint - so it has a bit of this and that and is true "fantasy" in color versus a realistic fantastical creature.  However, I think it somehow works and I've gotten to a point with it that I just don't see where adding more paint is going to be helpful and therefore I'm calling it done.

The version of the figure I have is from the kickstarter versus the metal version - as an original bones miniature it has a major failure - the bones pvc material is too flimsy and the heavy solid upper body doesn't "stand" on the two legs - hence the support piece I had to put into the middle from the base to keep the entire miniature from collapsing forward.  I noticed on Reaper's website that as of today, they are still selling this model in original bones - that's sad - nobody should actually purchase this in bones and Reaper should immediately convert this model over to their bones black.  It's a fun model that'll get a lot of ooh's and aahh's at the table and while the metal version is great, it's 5x more expensive at $26 as of this writing.

Kickstarter paint total: 150 + 1 Troll King = 151

WizKids Lich - WZK90020

This is the "other" mini in the 90020 package titled Lich & Mummy by Wizkids.  So in my mummy post I noted I wasn't exactly a fan of the translucent plastic piece.  However, in this model, I think the translucent plastic was well thought out and well done.  I was able to give it a wash of watered down purple and it worked out very nice - the skeleton coming out of the ground was cool enough but this bit of translucent plastic really ties the skeleton to the lich.

I've been playing with using more premade washes lately on these gaming models and with this one I wanted a "dirty" look.  Some it came out okay, the black wash I think needed to be watered down a bit.

Painting instructions for Mummy (used Reaper paints)...

Step 1: No need to primer - already done

Step 2: Use Desert Tan on skeleton

Step 3: Use Brilliant Red on robes

Step 4: Use Twilight Purple on inner robe and collar

Step 5: Use Sunburn Flesh on skeleton's leather bits

Step 6: Use a dark silver (it's a sample bottle so no name) on skeleton's metal bits

Step 7: Use Artic Grey on cloud structure

Step 8: Use Dwarven Gold on robe trim

Step 9: Use Dragon Black on base

Step 10: Drybrush Vallejo's Cold Grey on rock

Step 11: Wash bones with Vallejo's Flesh Wash

Step 12: Wash cloud structure with Vallejo's Pale Grey Wash

Step 13: Wash robes and armor with Vallejo's Black Wash

WizKids Mummy - WZK90020

 

Part of a Lich & Mummy pack from Wizkids - this is the Mummy figure.  Comes with the figure and a clear piece of plastic for the cloud effects behind the figure.  Quite a few of the Wizkids figures have this feature.  Not sure how I feel about it -- some are okay, others annoying, and some are just meh.  Example, I liked the effects on the blink dogs, this mummy figure is okay, and the human wizard was meh (just a bit over-stylized in my opinion).

Painting instructions for Mummy (used Reaper paints)...

Step 1: No need to primer - already done

Step 2: Use Desert Tan on base

Step 3: Use Yellowed Bone on mummy wrap

Step 4: Use Creamy Ivory on boney hand, feet, face

Step 5: Use Creamy Ivory and stippling technique on base

Step 6: Wash entire model with Flesh Wash (Vallejo)

Step 7: Use Uniform Brown on belt

Step 8: Use watered down Clouded Sea on cloud

Step 9: Wash cloud with Pale Grey (Vallejo)

Step 10: Drybrush very lightly the cloud with Maggot White

Step 11: Another wash of cloud with Pale Grey (Vallejo)

Step 12: Use watered down Maggot White and highlight all raised bits of cloud

Reaper Miniatures Dwarf Executioner - 77298

 

This was a bit whimsical.  While I was painting my Human Wizard, I always have some leftover paint as I go through the process and typically I have a few minis around where I spread the love - in this case, the dwarf received all the loving, lol. This also digs back into my Kickstarter pile...

Kickstarter paint total: 149 + 1 Dwarf = 150

WizKids Human Wizard - WZK72618

 

I needed a new model so that I can play a Human Wizard within an online Fantasy Game using Fantasy Grounds.  But Rick, I can hear you say, why would you need to paint a 3d miniature for a 2d computer virtual tabletop?  The answer is that every character needs a token - so I "tokenized" him for the game, but needed to visualize the entire figure - I'll also keep him next to my computer while playing the game on Fantasy Grounds to draw me into his character - an old wizard - a bit of a curmudgeon - wearing the traditional colors of his ancestry.

The token...

Here's what it looks like in game...

The model is Wizkids and I really like the sculpt - but I'm not too hot on the bit of plastic that makes up the spell - it's the latest craze and they're doing it to more and more of their models.  It's okay just not my "cup of tea" - maybe it'll grow on me.  And this is one of two models - the second one has the same face sculpt but a more elaborate outfit - maybe I'll paint that one several levels down the road.

Painting instructions for Human Wizard (used Reaper paints)...

Step 1: No need to primer - already done
Step 2: Use Griffon Tan on face and hands
Step 3: Use Maggot White on beard
Step 4: Use Crimson Red on robe
Step 5: Use Rich Leather on leather belt, pouches, and straps across chest
Step 6: Used Polished Leather to highlight leather belt, pouches, and straps across chest
Step 7: Use Mossy Green on robe front
Step 8: Add a bit of Maggot White to the Mossy Green to highlight robe on front
Step 9: Use that mix and water down - wash on the spell, add more Maggot White and repeat toward the front of the spell to get a blend from green to white
Step 10: Use Twilight Purple on cape and trim of the robe
Step 11: Use Umber Brown on staff
Step 12: Use Vallejo's Flesh wash on face and leather
Step 13: Use Pure Black on base
Step 14: Drybrush Vallejo's Cold Grey on rock
Step 15: Drybrush Vallejo's Stonewall Grey on rock