Tuesday, August 22, 2023

Fat Dragon Games DRAGONLOCK: Stoneskull Tower

 So we did a thing, a really big gigantic thing, lol...

We purchased the Stoneskull Tower from Fat Dragon Games. One of my Dungeons and Dragons players has a very large 3d printer but this tower was even larger than his print table - however, he's a pretty talented guy and he figured out how to slice the base into a pie and delivered the skull mountain base to me in pieces.





They were supposed to be printed in quarters - and he essentially printed them in eighths - so a little bit off glue and then some compound to hide the gap and all was good!  These four pieces then created the skull mountain base for the tower.




Once all the glue was dried and the gaps filled and the fit confirmed as being good I then took the pieces out on the workbench and used the airbrush to spray a black basecoat on the entire skull mountain base.




Wednesday, August 16, 2023

Reaper Miniatures Cadirith, Demonic Colossal Spider - 77395

 





This colossal was the big bad at the bottom of the chasm. I was running a module by Kobold Press that has the adventures going down into a muti-level chasm and at the bottom is this huge demonic bone spider. I didn't have a huge demonic bone spider, but I did have a huge demonic "Bones" spider sitting on the shelf in a pile of "Bones" from an early kickstarter for the "Bones" product line from Reaper. So I had this bad boy emerge from a pile of bones at the bottom of the chasm and everything worked perfectly.

One of the difficulties of this colossal monstrosity is that the original white Bones mixture has a tendency to bend/warp over time for something this big and heavy. Another problem, in the tactical combat of a Dungeons and Dragons game everyone playing needs to know which squares the monster is in order to determine both player and monster attacks. 

I solved both problems with a base and a paperclip. The bottom of the spider has a hollow and I bent one side of the paperclip into the hollow and superglued it into place. I then determined that the monster without the legs is basically "huge" in game terms which is a 3" diameter base. The paperclip was then superglued to the base and the base covered with compound. Problem solved - the spider has proper game dimensions and the weight of the miniature is on the metal post of the paperclip.

Painting instructions for Demonic Colossal Spider (used Vallejo paints)...

Step 1: Airbrushed the entire model with a dark blue
Step 2: Airbrushed the entire topside of the model with Magic Blue
Step 3: Airbrushed the very top (from the 12-o'clock position) with Electric Blue
Step 4: Airbrushed the bulb part of the spider with an Orange
Step 5: Brought the model into the hobby room and brush painted the remainder
Step 6: Use Scarlet Red on the talons
Step 7: Use Bloody Red on the tips of talons
Step 8: Use Black on the pincers and eyes
Step 9: Use Livery Green on the eyes
Step 10: Use Hot Orange on spikes
Step 11: Use Orange Fire on tips of spikes
Step 12: Use Black on base
Step 13: Drybrush Cold Grey on base
Step 14: Drybrush Stonewall Grey on base

Kickstarter paint total 179 + 1 Demonic Colossal Spider = 180


Saturday, August 12, 2023

Game Day With the Dragon Bone Bridge

The pillars were completed as well as the demon spider that was going to be the big bad at the bottom of the bottom of the chasm. I set everything up on the dining room table.




Giving the miniatures a test go on the platform to make sure everything was stable. It was exceptionally so! There are pegs that link into the bottom of the dungeon tiles and the bottoms of the pillars are dragon locked into the other pieces - the board was solid and would take any abuse from the players.




The results were awesome! Both groups had a great time and the board held up as expected. Highly recommend the dungeon tiles by Fat Dragon Games and the pillars module which provides the ability to create multi-level dungeon terrain.




Thursday, August 10, 2023

Making the Bridge Work With Fat Dragon Games Dungeon Terrain

It was time to put that really cool dragon bone bridge to good use by building it into a terrain gaming piece for a module I was going to run from Kobold Press for two different groups. I had a friend print off a bunch of dungeon tiles from Fat Dragon Games which I sprayed black and then layed out into what was going to be the top layer within a dungeon chasm with the bone bridge going across.



I then went to Home Depot and picked up some sample pots in color matched grey. Then a trip to the local hobby store and I picked up this giant scenery brush by Games Workshop. Then I went drybrush crazy.




The pillars weren't quite ready so I used some paint bottles to elevate the top layer from the bottom and gave it a test with the miniatures that were going to be used for the dungeon adventure.


And there you have it - more or less ready to go! I have two groups that are both in need to run through the same module so I get to use this scenario twice!


Saturday, August 05, 2023

Lost Mine of Phandelver - Freebie & Contrast Paints

 


I ordered some additional miniatures from 3D Dungeon Labs and besides the two extra giant spiders they also sent me a freebie miniature of this wood fey/sprite or pan creature.  It was the perfect opportunity to utilize some new contrast paints which I'd picked up from the local hobby store. I previously had picked up four of Vallejo's "contrast" paints they call Xpress Color.  I believe Games Workshop was the originator of the contrast paint type a few years back.  I had some friends tinker with the stuff creating a WH40k army or parts of one but none of them stayed with the paint line.

There were only 4 colors of the Vallejo Xpress Color in stock and the local hobby store said they had a difficult time keeping stock because they'd sell out almost immediately. I was able to pick up a brown, grey, green, and blue.  That's enough basic colors to do something with.  Well that something came about with this model.

I remember reading that these types of paints work best on a white or grey primer.  I still had an old can of white primer and therefore shot this model up with it.  Then I went to town on the model with the Vallejo Xpress Color.

First up was the green and using this paint I did what I'd normally do - load up the brush and start inside out - meaning I'd start on the face first and work my way out.  Normally this is good because you can be a bit "messy" and then "clean" by painting over any messes as you work towards the outer part of the model.

I made two mistakes immediately.  I put too much paint on the brush and hence the face and the upper body received too much green paint and I slobbered on other areas of the model which become issues later on.  The Xpress Color is a bit if an ink and paint had a baby but it really acts more like an ink.  The paint works with very little on the brush on top of a white foundation.  It's very transparent and pools into the recesses like an ink.  This thick and thin of the paint give it its contrast - where it pools has a darker color than the flat of a model.  I noticed also that as it dries, it stretches the paint pulling the paint towards the ends and thinning out the middle.

Mistake 1 - you'll notice that the face is too dark compared to the body - I slobbered too much on the face and so the paint didn't have the ability to pull into recess and pull towards the end.  The solution is to use very little of the paint over a solid white primer.  

Mistake 2 - I'm used to slobbering paint initially and then cleaning up that slobber with another color.  This is displayed in the hair of the model and the sash across the back.  I initially did some brush strokes slobbering on the green and quickly realized how fluid this paint actually was and how little I needed to use and that because of the translucent effect the paint needed over white primer that this was going to cause a problem.  The solution and understanding is that this is a very technical paint and black lines generate where paint overlaps - which is a very cool effect because essentially it does the black lining for you!  This effect is noticeable on the front of the model where the brown meets the green or the blue of the sash has a black line between it and the green of the body or the brown of the pan flute.  You can also see on the back of the model where the green was slobbered all over the sash and the blue on top just turns into big splotches of black.  Therefore the trick is to stay "within the lines" and have a slight overlap between two colors to generate a thin black line for higher contrast.

Once the green was done and I started to learn some lessons, I then pulled out the brown and did up all the wood on the creature - the legs, hands, shoulder pads, and antlers.  I made sure to use only a little bit of the paint at a time and being very careful technically to only put paint on the right parts.  I found myself dabbing and spreading more than actually painting.

Next came the blue which I used on the sash and the shoulder pad decorations.  And finally I used the grey on the hooves, 

Some thoughts...

* the paint over a solid and smooth white primer is going to generate a very dynamic model

* very little paint goes a long way

* keep washing the brush, dry it into a point with a twirl, then dab into the paint - do this often but do not leave water on the brush as normal

* the contrast is between crevice and flat - not as the sun shines which we've been taught as mini-painters to do for the past two decades

* the brightness and shading of the sun can be accomplished by moving the paint around or placing a second layer - so for example, I placed more brown at the bottom side of the antlers once I figured out how the paint worked

* the grey was too translucent - it needed two coats

* it's a fast way of painting - this entire model took an hour and I probably could have done it in less time as I was learning the paint

* it's a very technical paint - you can't be sloppy and you can't change your mind unless you repaint a section white

* there's no blending or layering - it's a very different thought process 

* I would not teach a beginner using this paint - however an intermediate painter can use this paint to quickly paint highly dynamic models

Overall it's an interesting paint line - I'm going to keep dabbling with it and probably pick up some more colors within the paint line.

Friday, August 04, 2023

Lost Mine of Phandelver - Giant Spider 2

 




More spider love!  I painted these the opposite of the first group of giant spiders for the Lost Mine.  I ordered some additional miniatures from 3D Dungeon Labs and mentioned that when you play the end sequence of Lost Mines you really need four of these giant spiders - so Jonathan sent me another two spiders with my new miniatures.  These look fantastic as a set - 2 blues and 2 reds.


Wednesday, June 28, 2023

Polygons & Peril Borderlands Inspired Lilith Dice Set


Something new and different for the blog - miniature painting of a different sort - I received today a "deluxe" set of dice from Polygons & Peril Etsy shop - the Borderland Inspired Lilith dice set is hand cast and hand painted making every die unique in the set.  

I opted for the "deluxe" version instead of the "standard" 7 dice set - this one has 12 dice - it adds a total of 4d6's for spell damage - 2d20's for 5e's advantage/disadvantage roles - and even a d2 for odds/evens - it's brilliant, that's the die I've always been missing and didn't know it!


Saturday, June 24, 2023

WizKids Eidolon Possessed Sacred Statue - WZK90167

 


"Really, take my eyeball and I will CRUSH you!!" What a great sculpt of the classic first edition AD&D Player's Handbook cover drawing come to life.  So let's go down that path for a second as WOTC has crossed the streams a bit... it appears from Mordenkainen's Tome of Foes (page 177) that the classic drawing is a statue of the archdevil Moloch.  The entry for an Eidolon (page 193) states that it is a sacred undead guardian for the gods to protect the sites they deem holy - the Eidolon jumps into one of the sacred statues at the site and animates the statue with its actions.  Okay, so Moloch has a powerful statline, but the monster isn't a god.  Therefore, while I love the figure, it's not the figure for an Eidolon and its sacred statues - I believe the statues should have more of a Tomb Raider feel (perhaps one of my favorite movie scenes was there in the temple with the statues becoming animated).  Also, I agree with many of the comments on the stat page, I wouldn't wait until a 5/6 to animate a statue, I'd just allow it to jump from one statue to the next.

I also would have preferred this statblock to be huge or gargantuan.  Then I can use my dice tower purchased from Gamespot and animate it, brahahaha.  A recent game with the statue dice tower as a set prop for a temple encounter - also check out the cool t-shirt, lol...


Alright, back to this figure from Wizkids -- again, this was a simple airbrush solution of a dark red to a fiery orange and then given a black wash to tone it all down and pop out the stone cracks.  Give it a proper base and drybrush the greys and it's done.  I did give an attempt at an emerald eye - I still have a long way to go to make realistic gems - I did the inverse dark to light and then a spot of white - it looks okay but not great.  Overall though, I really like the way this one turned out and look forward to unleashing it on my players.


Saturday, June 17, 2023

WizKids Bodaks - WZK90155

 


I love these monsters - just suck the life out of the characters with their aura and gaze of undead along with the ability to pass a message direct from Orcus - so many role playing opportunities there!  The sculpts on these represent the drawing in the monster manual (Volo's Guide specifically) pretty well and while I'm liking the sculpt and the overall figure, I don't care for the color rendering in the pages of the book.  Therefore I decided to go with something darker and more alien - I sprayed these with Imperial Purple and then the Vallejo Game Air line has a color called Alien Purple or something like that which is a nice highlight.  Airbrush is so freaking awesome!  Then did my standard drybrushing of Cold Grey and Stonewall Grey on the base.  Done!


Saturday, June 10, 2023

Lost Mine of Phandelver - Cultists




Oh these were great fun to paint with the airbrush and simple as well.  I did these two different ways - one group of three was Black to Sombre Grey while the other was a Black to a Stormy Blue.  Each model was sprayed a base coat, then from about a 2:00 position a lighter color and then from the 12:00 position the lightest.  The interesting bit about the airbrush is that the spray has a dithering effect - essentially it's spraying fine dots of paint.  When I look at the model in my hand I can't see the dithering, but when I take a picture of it in high res at 2x or 3x the size the dithering is obvious.  I used a wash to blend in the three layers of sprayed paint.

The washes were a Black Wash and a Blue Wash respectively.  Following that I put together about a 60/40 mix of Sombre Grey with Dead Flesh to paint the face - the idea is I wanted to keep a very subdued/shadowy look to this group.  Finally, I wanted one item of important to each model highlighted - the book with some writing, the dagger, or the flaming skull - which was painted with Goblin Green, Escorpena Green, and Livery Green.  On that model I tried my first attempt at object source lighting (OSL) - whereby the green flames on the skull reflected back on the model as a light source.

This is part of the 3D Dungeon Labs Etsy shop purchase.

Sculpt: Excellent - these were fun sculpts to airbrush with lots of dynamic flowing robes/cloaks and as a group will look great on the tabletop

3D Print: Excellent - well done - clean - no issues anywhere - very solid

Fitness: Good - has the proper base and scale, and while these models make good generic cultists, they're not really dragon cultists - dragon cultists are famous for their dragon masks.


Saturday, June 03, 2023

Lost Mine of Phandelver - Stirge

 




These were fun - more 3d prints from 3D Dungeon Labs.  I first hit these with the airbrush using a dark red first and then hitting them with a highlight from on top with a pure red.  I followed the airbrush up by bringing them to the desk and hitting the nose, belly, and claws using the schemes that I did with these hand painted Reaper Stirges.

This is part of the 3D Dungeon Labs Etsy shop purchase.

Sculpt: Excellent - these were fun sculpts and as a group will look great on the tabletop

3D Print: Excellent - well done - clean - no issues anywhere

Fitness: Excellent - has the proper base and scale, model matches expectations - very well done.


Friday, June 02, 2023

Lost Mine of Phandelver - Ghoul

 




Oh I just loved these models - I think they're more ghast looking than ghoul if you look at the 5e Monster Manual - but either way I love the look.  The book has them more grey to white - I went just a slightly different direction with these going from Rotting Flesh to Bone White to Dead White.

The rotting flesh was airbrushed over the entire model.  I then hit them with Bone White at about the 3 o'clock level and then did a final highlight of Dead white at the 12 o'clock position.  The close ups is kinda washed up and hard to see the graduations, but I think the group picture show this better - there's quite a bit a contrast from dark to light.

I thought about taking these to the desk to detail them out and actually did bring them over, but then decided against it as it would have been too time consuming without benefit on these models as I'd have to paint the clothes, the tongues, eyes, intestines, etc. and they have different features as some have clothes and some don't - it just would have broken the art direction I was going for here.

This is part of the 3D Dungeon Labs Etsy shop purchase.

Sculpt: Excellent - more ghast than ghoul but the sculpt itself is really well done.

3D Print: Excellent - well done - clean - no issues anywhere

Fitness: Excellent - has the proper base and scale, model matches expectations with the exception that I would say these are more ghastly than ghoulish, but you can really use either way - and I love that some appear more hobgoblin/monstrous and some human - makes for a nice mix that any creature can become a ghoul/ghast.


Thursday, June 01, 2023

EnderToys - Bone Bridge

 



This is one of the coolest terrain pieces I've purchased - $15 on Amazon.  I have the perfect adventure for this from Kobold Press within the Underworld Lairs book.  My players are going to lose their minds when I put this on the table.

I started this one off with the airbrush - first hitting it with a black primer.  Then I airbrushed all the bone pieces with Bone White.  Then airbrushed the bridge with Beasty Brown.

Once complete with airbrushing, I brought it onto the desk to clean up overspray - mostly on the black.  I did not drybrush the black with my grey stone treatment that I do to most bases because the model's 3d print is a little bit rough - if there's a negative on this one is that the 3d is a bit coarse - would like to have seen this print with a bit finer settings.