ZN Games Goblin Dungeon Scout - 23-004

Yahoo!! Another mini painted in 2010 - maybe I can get another one or two cranked out, but then I think the kids sports and projects at work are going to sap my time - but here's a miniature from ZN Games' Unearthed Hyperborean Age straight from the package - as you can see, it has the same 2d sculpting feel as the other goblin and fighter and uses the same hexagon 1" base. I'm fairly certain that the other two are from ZN Games as well.

2014/12/30 update - found the sculptor to be Chaz Elliot.

This is kind of a goofy miniature whereby the sword is twice the size of the figure - and how about them antlers. I kept with the same blue skin tone to match up with the other gobo. I'm starting to feel a bit more comfortable and the non-metalic parts are a slight step up from the previous figs. The metal armor - and there's a lot! - I painted on versus using a drybrush technique - I tried to leave blacklining between bits and used the metallics extremely watered down building up multiple layers.

A did a slight variation on the side of the base - instead of the striping as in the previous gobo, it was more of a drybrush - not sure if it really works - not bad, just different.

Painting Instructions for Goblin Dungeon Scout:

Step 01: Undercoat with black primer
Step 02: Use 50/50 mix of Dark Flesh and Blazing Orange on hair
Step 03: Use Blazing Orange as highlights on hair
Step 04: Use 50/50 Blazing Orange and Skull White for hair final highlight
Step 05: Wetbrush Dark Flesh on horns
Step 06: Add Bleached Bone - continue to white - then wash with Dark Flesh
Step 07: Use Enchanted Blue on skin
Step 08: Use mix of Enchanted Blue and Skull White on skin - continue adding Skull White until 2 parts Skull White to 1 part Enchanted Blue
Step 09: Use Boltgun Metal on all armor and sword
Step 10: Use Mithril Silver for armor and sword highlights
Step 11: Use Snakebite Leather for leather
Step 12: Use Vomit Brown for leather highlights
Step 13: Use mix of Vomit Brown and Bleached Bone for leather highlights
Step 14: Use drybrush of Codex Grey on stones
Step 15: Use drybrush of Fortress Grey on stones
Step 16: Use drybrush of Skull White as final highlights on stone

ZN Games Goblin Dungeon Boyo - 23-006

Hey - another painted miniature within 8 days! More painting then I've done in 3 years.

I believe this is another ZN-Games model (2010-09-24 - I happened to come across one in the package at my local hobby/gaming store - it is the Goblin Dungeon Boyo number 23-006 - title has been updated) - they all have the same one inch octagonal base and what I call a 2d look - there's a front to the model and a back to the model but no real effort at making the model look good from the side. This is typical of the smaller casting shops that kept the mold making simple.

2014/12/30 - discovered that the sculptor is Kev Adams.

I've grabbed these two models as they're easy to paint and I figured that would be a good place to reshape my skills and a blue goblin with orange hair is a bit whimsical but hey - they're on opposite sides of the color wheel so I'm within good color theory!

The fighter below looked like he was a barbarian out of the north - so I modeled a bit of snow which was a first for me. For this base I went back to my traditional in the dungeon look - but I did a bit of what can be best called a drybrush swipe along the sides. I've seen this done previously by another painter to good affect and tried it way back when on a model of a small lizardman using blue and white on the base. It's a bit different and breaks up the monotony of a black base.

Painting Instructions for Archived Goblin:

Step 01: Undercoat with white primer (should have been black)
Step 02: Use Enchanted Blue on goblin skin (something different)
Step 03: Use Chaos Black on all armor and weapon bits as well as hair
Step 04: Use Boltgun Metal on all armor and weapon bits
Step 05: Use Dark Flesh on all leather and wood
Step 06: Use 50/50 mix of Dark Flesh and Blazing Orange on hair
Step 07: Use Blazing Orange as a wet drybrush on hair
Step 08: Use Snakebite Leather on all leather
Step 09: Use Bubonic Brown on all leather as highlight
Step 10: Use 50/50 Bubonic Brown and Bleached Bone as final on leather
Step 11: Use Bleached Bone on skull
Step 12: Use Skull White as highlight on skull
Step 13: Use Vomit Brown as wood highlight
Step 14: Use 50/50 Vomit Brown and Skull White as final wood highlight
Step 15: Use Blazing Orange as highlights on hair
Step 16: Use 50/50 Blazing Orange and Skull White for hair final highlight
Step 17: Wash of Regal Blue on skin with focus on crevices for shading
Step 18: Use 2:1 Enchanted Blue and Skull White for skin highlights
Step 19: Use 1:1 Enchanted Blue and Skull White for skin highlights
Step 20: Use Chainmail on metal highlights
Step 21: Use Mithril Silver on metal for final highlights
Step 22: Use Chaos Black on base
Step 23: Drybrush Codex Grey on rocks
Step 24: Drybrush Fortress Grey on rocks

ZN Games Human Hero - 23-014

2012-03-25: I came across a webstore today called Ahzz'z who happened to have a few of the Hyperborean Age miniatures and therefore this is no longer an unknown "archived" miniature - it is indeed from ZN-Games and is figure 23-014 the Human Hero.

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The paints still live! Well sort of - it's been a couple of years and there's not much wet paint in the buckets - even the year or two prior to the past two years had only one mini - this is the post Matthew era. But nevertheless, I've managed to find a bit of time to paint a miniature this past weekend - yahoo!

Not my best work, but far better than I actually anticipated - between the dried up paint and the rusty skills, I'm surprised it doesn't look like a big blob. This miniature was hanging around and it had a black undercoat on it - additionally, it was a lot of chainmail armor - easy to drybrush as a welcome back. I think it's from ZN-Games and their Unearthed line - however, I no longer have the blister package and ZN-Games is defunct - I couldn't find a website out there with their products to match up a picture.

Might notice the pics are a bit different. I've tossed out my really old computer (it was 13 years old - one massive piece of iron - they don't make them that way no more!!) which had a SCSI card in order to run the HP scanner I was using. I'm now using laptops, so I'm not able to hook up the old scanner. Therefore the pictures were taken using a digital camera, tossed into ms paint, zoomed up to 400x, and edged out by hand.

Painting Instructions for Archived Fighter:

Step 01: Undercoat with Black Primer
Step 02: Use Dark Flesh on face
Step 03: Use Skull White mixed with Dark Flesh for highlights
Step 04: Continue adding white until final highlights on tip of nose
Step 05: Use Red Gore on beard
Step 06: Drybrush Blood Red on beard
Step 07: Use Boltgun Metal on all armor and helmet
Step 08: Use Snakebite Leather on leather bits
Step 09: Use Bubonic Brown as highlights on leather bits
Step 10: Use Bleached Bone on horns
Step 11: Wash horns with watered down Dark Flesh
Step 12: Highlight horns with Bleached Bone
Step 13: Use Snot Green on shirt and pants
Step 14: Use Skull White mixed with Snot Green on shirt/pants highlight
Step 15: Use Chaos Black on eyes and dot with Skull White
Step 16: Use Skull White on snow
Step 17: Wash snow with watered down mix of Skull White with a little drop of Enchanted Blue
Step 18: Drybrush Skull White on snow
Step 19: Use Chaos Black on base

Reaper's Carnessa, the Terrible - 2077

Wow!

First miniature painted for 2008! Actually I started this model and completed about 3/4 of the work throughout December and then put the finishing touches on it this first week of January.

I copied this paint scheme from an old miniature I did of a skeleton king called Golgath, Eradicator. This figure will match nicely as the queen.

Not too bad overall - still getting the paintstroke back as well as patience - I'm not as smooth and there really needs to be more layers building up from dark to highlights which you'll see is much better on the older model. Overall it's a good match and they'll look great on the gaming table together.

Unfortunately, the way this miniature is designed - the left side can't be scanned - so you get the front, right, and back sides.

Painting Instructions for Carnessa, the Terrible:

Step 01: Undercoat model with Chaos Black
Step 02: Use Nauseating Blue on cape
Step 03: Use Liche Purple on cape
Step 04: Use Warlock Purple on cape - start highlighting
Step 05: Use Tentacle Pink on cape as highlights
Step 06: Mix Skull White and Tentacle Pink - continue until final highligh
Step 07: Use Vomit Brown on bones
Step 08: Mix Bleached Bone into Vomit Brown on bones
Step 09: Use Bleached Bone on bones as highlights
Step 10: Mix Skull White into Bleached Bone on bones as final highlights
Step 11: Use Scaly Green on tattered clothing
Step 12: Mix Vile Green into Scaly Green on tattered clothing
Step 13: Continue to add Vile Green on tattered clothing - start highlight
Step 14: Mix Skull White to Vile Green on tattered clothing for highlight
Step 15: Continue to add Skull White for tattered clothing final highlight
Step 16: Use Leprous Brown on gloves and boots
Step 17: Mix Golden Yellow into Leprous Brown on gloves and boots as highl
Step 18: Mix more Golden Yellow into Leprous Brown on gloves and boots as
Step 19: Mix Skull White into Golden Yellow/Leprous Brown on gloves and bo
Step 20: Drybrush Shadow Grey on hair
Step 21: Drybrush Space Wolves Grey on hair for highlight
Step 22: Drybrush Ghostly Grey on hair for further highlights
Step 23: Drybrush Skull White on hair for final highlights
Step 24: Use Codex Grey on bat wings for highlight
Step 25: Use Fortress Grey on wings for final highlight
Step 26: Use Scorched Brown on staff
Step 27: Use Snakebite Leather for final highlights on staff
Step 28: Use Boltgun Metal on all metal bits
Step 29: Use Tin Bitz on helm
Step 30: Use Chainmail to highlight metal
Step 31: Use Brazen Brass to highlight helm decoration
Step 32: Use Mithril Silver as final highlight to metal
Step 33: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 34: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base highlights
Step 35: Drybrush Skull White on base for final highlights

Maiden of the Blade #2...

I finally did it! A miniature painted in 2007. It's been a long time, but it's like riding a bike - once you get back on it's not too hard to get back in the groove. I picked a spare mini from a bag of stuff that I had in the drawer.

I'm not at all sure where I picked this mini up - nor do I have any idea of the company - I thought it might be i-Kore but I couldn't find this miniature on-line in any catalogs.

2014/12/31 - Update - found it! - this figure is from the Chronopia line produced by Heartbreaker - figure #2 from the warband box 20517 - Sons of Kronos Maidens of the Blade - most likely sculpted by Kevin White.

As it's been awhile, I modeled the paint scheme on the old Warhammer Quest Warrior model that I painted back in 2001 - nothing like going back a few years!

All in all I was happy with the end results - I think overall I've lost some patience - my drybrushing is a bit rushed and not as detailed. My layering technique is still good.

Painting Instructions for Archived War Maiden:

Step 01: Undercoat model with white primer
Step 02: Use Scorched Brown on all fur and leather
Step 03: Use mix of Scorched Brown and Blood Red on inside bearskin
Step 04: Use Snakebite Leather on all hair
Step 05: Use Enchanted Blue on loincloth
Step 06: Use Chaos Black on all metal bits
Step 07: Drybrush Chainmail on all metal bits
Step 08: Highlight drybrush Mithril Silver on sword
Step 09: Use Bronzed Flesh on skin
Step 10: Drybrush bear fur with Snakebite Leather, Bubonic Brown, and Bleached Bone - then over the Bubonic Brown very lightly over the Bleached Bone areas
Step 11: Highlight hair with Leprous Brown - then mix with Bleached Bone
Step 12: Use Vermin Brown on fur of boot
Step 13: Drybrush Leprous Brown and then mix of Bleached Bone on fur of boot
Step 14: Highlight boot and gloves using Snakebite Leather to Bubonic Brown
Step 15: Blend blue areas from Enchanted Blue to Lightning Blue with Ice B
Step 16: Use mix of Bronzed Flesh and Elf Flesh on skin
Step 17: Use Elf Flesh on skin
Step 18: Highlight skin with mix of Elf Flesh and Pallid Flesh then Pallid Flesh only
Step 19: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 20: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 21: Highlight base with Skull White

Ral Partha's (Iron Wind Metals) Aerial Servant w/Pizza

I started this miniature in hopes that I would finish in time for the Ral Partha (miniature molds now owned by Iron Wind Metals) painting contest. The contest was to paint any Ral Partha figure in their very long history (the history of Ral Partha goes back to I believe the 80's). I have a couple and the aerial servant was one that I thought would be fun to paint. Unfortunately the due date was the end of October and I didn't have time to complete the miniature until this weekend.

Painting Instructions for Aerial Servant w/Pizza
Step 01: Undercoat model with black primer
Step 02: Use Regal Blue as a base coat on everything except vest
Step 03: Use light coat of Shadow Grey to highlight shirt and towel
Step 04: Add Skull White to the Shadow Grey and continue highlights
Step 05: Use Leprous Brown on the pizza and stone plate
Step 06: Use watered down Red Gore on pizza slices
Step 07: Use mix of Leprous Brown and Skull White on pizza crust
Step 08: Use mix of Regal Blue and Skull White to highlight air and face
Step 09: Add Skull White to mix and continue highlights
Step 10: Drybrush Skull White on tuxedo for highlights
Step 11: Use a wash of Chaos Black on tuxedo (except for buttons)
Step 12: Drybrush Codex Grey on rocks
Step 13: Drybrush Fortress Grey on rocks
Step 14: Drybrush Skull White on rocks

Heartbreaker's Natural Selection...

A long time ago a small company called Wizards of the Coast made a card game called Magic The Gathering. In 1994 they worked with Heartbreaker Hobbies to cast miniatures of their Deckmaster cards. I picked up a couple of these old miniatures a long time ago (about four years ago) in the discount bin. I then bought the card off of e-bay and copied the original Mark Poole picture onto the miniature. I've been working on/off this miniature for years - I kept tweaking with the highlighting and as of this weekend I'm declaring it finally finished!

Painting Instructions for Natural Selection (works better in a few hours instead of a few years):
Step 01: Undercoat models with white primer
Step 02: Use Chaos Black on base, staff, skirt, and feathered head
Step 03: Use Blazing Orange on beak
Step 04: Use Blood Red on fur
Step 05: Use Chaos Black on stripes and nails
Step 06: Use Scab Red on ball in hand
Step 07: Use Blazing Orange on fur
Step 08: Use mix of Blazing Orange and Fiery Orange on fur
Step 09: Use Fiery Orange on fur for highlight
Step 10: Use mix of Fiery Orange and Skull White on fur for further highlights
Step 11: Use Golden Yellow - add to mix and perform final highlights - repeat 10 and 11 as needed
Step 12: Use Skull White as chest highlights blending into Fiery Orange
Step 13: Use Scorched Brown on bird feathers and staff
Step 14: Wet drybrush Snakebit Leather onto feathers
Step 15: Mix a bit of Fiery Orange, Skull White, and Snakebite Leather for drybrush highlights on feathers
Step 16: Use Bestial Brown on ridges of staff
Step 17: Use Snakebite Leather on ridges of staff
Step 18: Use Vomit Brown as final highlight on ridges of staff
Step 19: Use Chestnut Ink mixed with 60% water and wash staff
Step 20: Use mix of Chaos Black and Fortress Grey to highlight skirt
Step 21: Use Fortress Grey as final highlight on skirt
Step 22: Use Blood Red as highlight on ball in hand
Step 23: Use Blazing Orange to run a highlight stripe on ball in hand
Step 24: Use Skull White to place dot on top highlight of ball in hand

Reaper's Templar Knight - 2330

I finally managed to find some time to paint again. I chose to paint the templar knight because I had already done a similar templar knight from Reaper and could replicate the look while using the first miniature as a guide. I figured doing so would be the easiest way to remember once again how to paint.

I use GW's paints and have always taken good care of them. I've never been away from painting for the amount of time as current and knowing GW's reputation for dried paint due to caps with a faulty design; I was a bit worried. Good news and bad news - I did lose 2 paints - Scab Red and Bestial Brown. However, most of the others all made it through the drought alright. The best were GW's newly designed caps - right before my last stopping point GW had re-released their paints with the new cap design. Those paints made it through looking like day one from the hobby store.

Painting Instructions for Templar Knight:
Step 01: Undercoat model with Black primer
Step 02: Drybrush Boltgun Metal on all chainmail and metal bits
Step 03: Use Regal Blue on robes
Step 04: Use mix of Regal Blus and Ultramarines Blue on robes
Step 05: Use Ultramarines Blue on robes
Step 06: Use mix of Ultramarines Blue and Lightning Blue on robes
Step 07: Use Lightning Blue on robes
Step 08: Use Ice Blue on robes
Step 09: Use Skull White on robes
Step 10: Use Scab Red on shield
Step 11: Use Red Gore on shield
Step 12: Use Blood Red on shield
Step 13: Use Blazing Orange on shield
Step 14: Use Ice Blue on cross on shield
Step 15: Use mix of Ice Blue and Skull White on cross on shield
Step 16: Use Skull White on cross on shield
Step 17: Use Scorched Brown on leather bits
Step 18: Use Bestial Brown on leather bits
Step 19: Use Snakebite Leather on leather bits
Step 20: Use Buboninc Brown on leather bits
Step 21: Use mix of Bubonic Brown and Bleached Bone on leather bits
Step 22: Use Scorched Brown on back of shield
Step 23: Use Bestial Brown to make vertical lines on back of shield
Step 24: Use Vomit Brown to make vertical lines on back of shield
Step 25: Use Bleached Bone to make vertical line on back of shield
Step 26: Use Boltgun Metal around outside of and small line around back of shield
Step 27: Use Tin Bitz on sword pommel
Step 28: Mix Tin Bitx and Boltgun Metal for highlights on sword pommel
Step 29: Use Chainmail on metal highlights
Step 30: Use Mithril Silver as final metal highlights
Step 31: Drybrush Codex Grey on stone
Step 32: Drybrush Fortress Grey on stone
Step 33: Drybrush Skull White on stone

I'm going to do it!

I am going to paint a mini this summer!

Reaper's Galladon - 2114

This is my longest running paintjob to date - about 2 years in the works. It was a testbed for many techniques and then shelved. I made a resolution to finish him in 2005. Finished in February 2005.

Painting Instructions for Galladin:
Step 01: Undercoat model with Chaos Black
Step 02: Use Fiery Orange on robe
Step 03: Use Golden Yellow on robe
Step 04: Use Sunburst Yellow on robe
Step 05: Use Bad Moon Yellow on robe as first highlights
Step 06: Add Skull White to Bad Moon Yellow on robe as second highlights
Step 07: Add more Skull White to the mix as third highlight on robe
Step 08: Use Scab Red on cloak
Step 09: Use Red Gore on cloak
Step 10: Use Blood Red on cloak
Step 11: Use Blazing Orange on cloak to highlight
Step 12: Use Fiery Orange on cloak to highlight
Step 13: Use Golden Yellow on cloak for final highlight
Step 14: Use Ice Blue on robe trim
Step 15: Drybrush Skull White on robe trim
Step 16: Drybrush heavier bits of Skull White on highlights of robe trim
Step 17: Use Scorched Brown on staff
Step 18: Use Snakebite Leather on staff
Step 19: Use Vomit Brown on staff
Step 20: Heavy drybrush of Bleached Bone on staff
Step 21: Use watered down wash of Chestnut Brown on staff
Step 22: Use Bubonic Brown on all leather - belt, pouch, belt on hat
Step 23: Use watered down Flesh Wash on all leather bits
Step 24: Use Bubonic Brown to highlight all leather bits
Step 25: Use watered down Bleached Bone on all leather bits as highlight
Step 26: Use Boltgun Metal on metal bits
Step 27: Use Skull White on beard
Step 28: Use Bronzed Flesh on face and hands
Step 29: Use watered down Flesh Wash on face and hands
Step 30: Use Bronzed Flesh on face and hands as highlight
Step 31: Use Elf Flesh on face and hands as final highlights

Reaper's Men At Arms - 6055

Men at Arms - besides Orcs, every campaign needs to battle some evil warriors up to no good. So without further delay - here are 2 in the Reaper Men At Arms 4-pack (2 axe and 2 sword).

Painting Instructions for Men At Arms
Step 01: Undercoat model with Chaos Black
Step 02: Use Boltgun Metal on all metal
Step 03: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 04: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 05: Drybrush Skull White on base

Games-Workshop's Tyranid Genestealers

Tyranid Genestealers for Daniel's 40k game. These were a quick paint - we started out by spray painting the whole lot red. Then did a wash with Blood Red and a highlight drybrushing with Blazing Orange. Then painted all the skel structure with Chaos Black and drybrushed with Hawk Turquoise.

Reaper's Orcs - 6061

More Orcs! Everyone needs more orcs to brighten their day and I thought it would be a good idea to start the year out right by finishing off the orcs sitting on my shelf! Finished in January 2005.

Painting Instructions for Various Reaper Orcs
Step 01: Undercoat models with black primer
Step 02: Use Boltgun Metal on all metal bits
Step 03: Mix some Flesh Wash (2x), a bit of Red Ink a bit of Yellow Ink onto metal bits as a rust affect
Step 04: Lightly drybrush Boltgun Metal on all metal bits
Step 05: Use Dark Flesh on skin
Step 06: Use Vermin Brown to highlight skin
Step 07: Use Leprous Brown as final highlight on skin
Step 08: Use Scorched Brown on wood (including back of shields)
Step 09: Use Bestial Brown as drybrush on wood (line back of shields)
Step 10: Use Vomit Brown as drybrush on wood (highlight line back of shields)
Step 11: Use very light drybrush of Bleached Bone on wood
Step 12: Wash drybrush with Bestial Brown
Step 13: Use Snakebite Leather on leather (leave black lines)
Step 14: Use Bubonic Brown as heavy highlight on leather
Step 15: Use Scab Red on shield
Step 16: Highlight shield with Blood Red
Step 17: Use Boltgun Metal on metal bits of shield
Step 18: Use Chaos Black on sides of base and rocks
Step 19: Drybrush Codex Grey on rocks
Step 20: Drybrush Fortress Grey on rocks
Step 21: Drybrush Skull White on rocks

Reaper's Orc Warrior of Kargir - 2259

Another orc sitting on the shelf. Finished in January 2005

Painting Instructions for Various Reaper Orcs
Step 01: Undercoat models with black primer
Step 02: Use Boltgun Metal on all metal bits
Step 03: Mix some Flesh Wash (2x), a bit of Red Ink a bit of Yellow Ink onto metal bits as a rust affect
Step 04: Lightly drybrush Boltgun Metal on all metal bits
Step 05: Use Dark Flesh on skin
Step 06: Use Vermin Brown to highlight skin
Step 07: Use Leprous Brown as final highlight on skin
Step 08: Use Scorched Brown on wood (including back of shields)
Step 09: Use Bestial Brown as drybrush on wood (line back of shields)
Step 10: Use Vomit Brown as drybrush on wood (highlight line back of shields)
Step 11: Use very light drybrush of Bleached Bone on wood
Step 12: Wash drybrush with Bestial Brown
Step 13: Use Snakebite Leather on leather (leave black lines)
Step 14: Use Bubonic Brown as heavy highlight on leather
Step 15: Use Scab Red on shield
Step 16: Highlight shield with Blood Red
Step 17: Use Boltgun Metal on metal bits of shield
Step 18: Use Chaos Black on sides of base and rocks
Step 19: Drybrush Codex Grey on rocks
Step 20: Drybrush Fortress Grey on rocks
Step 21: Drybrush Skull White on rocks

Reaper's Laurana, Sorceress - 2621

It's a good thing we have holiday breaks in November and December as it provides me time to paint! Last model from the paint class with the kids - which I started last winter and just now finished! Finished in December 2004.

Painting Instructions for Luarana
Step 01: Primer in white
Step 02: Use Bronzed Flesh on skin
Step 03: Wash figure with watered down Flesh Wash
Step 04: Use Elf Flesh on main skin portions
Step 05: Use Pallid Flesh as highlights on skin
Step 06: Add Skull White to Pallid Flesh for greater highlights
Step 07: Add more Skull White to mix for final highlights
Step 08: Use Dark Angels Green on bikini
Step 09: Use Snot Green on bikini as highlights
Step 10: Use Scorpion Green on bikini as final highlights
Step 11: Use Regal Blue on skirt
Step 12: Use Enchanted Blue on skirt for highlights
Step 13: Use Lightning Blue on skirt for final highlights
Step 14: Use Scorched Brown on all leather bits
Step 15: Drybrush Snakebite Leather on all leather bits
Step 16: Use Bleached Bone to highlight all leather bits
Step 17: Use Bleached Bone on parchment
Step 18: Wash parchment with Flesh Wash
Step 19: Drybrush Skull White as highlights on parchment
Step 20: Use Chaos Black to make writing marks on parchment
Step 21: Use Bad Moon Yellow on hair
Step 22: Use mix of Skull White and Bad Moon Yellow for hair highlights
Step 23: Add more Skull White to mix for final highlights
Step 24: Use Chaos Black as undercoat for metal bits
Step 25: Use Burnished Gold on metal bits and bottom of skirt
Step 26: Use Chaos Black on base
Step 27: Drybrush Codex Grey on base
Step 28: Drybrush Fortress Grey on base
Step 29: Drybrush Skull White on base