A Ghostly Experiment

 

Doubtful that I'll ever grow up - I laughed and had to download this one (I believe it's actually been taken off Makers as my downloads has a listing of "The print profile is no longer public"). 

I'm sure that I'll find a creative way to use these in a D&D session, rofl.

In the meantime, I used my little ghost friends as an experiment with Vallejo's Xpress Color paints. These ghosts presented a nice surface area to try and use the paints to cover something large like a cape. While I really really really want to like these paints and the concept of quickly throwing paint around, they're frustrating to me for a couple reasons.

1. I use high quality brushes yet brush strokes are everywhere

2. The way the highlighting and the shading works is based essentially on gravity and results in blotches

3. It dries fast, so you have to work quickly - else you tear the previous paint when it's in its drying state - you essentially can't start in the middle - work left, then work right - when you go back to work right you'll tear the paint you've previously laid down - so you have to work left to right, top to bottom or vice versa depending upon your model

4. Air bubbles - I have no idea why, but when I put the paint on my palette it looks like a drop of good paint - when loading the brush it bubbles into the brush which then results in tiny air bubbles - regular paint from Vallejo, Reaper, Games Workshop, etc. doesn't do this - I use sable brushes, I'll need to come back to this experiment with synthetic brushes - additionally some colors are way more vulnerable to bubble attack - my previous use of brown had no issue - red was minimal - white moderate - blue was very challenging as I had to work the bubbles out and there still ended being some - more examples of those colors which are more likely to generate bubbles can be seen on my Xpress Colors model swatch.

The best luck I've had with the Xpress paints is to use the slapchop method as done with the Frost Devil. Using slapchop gives control of highlight and shadow and makes it easier to paint with the Xpress paints.

As I noted the first time I used Xpress paints - they're not for beginners.

One last experiment performed on these ghosts was using a clear coat - I've tried using Testor's dullcote which is awesome on all miniatures except those painted with Xpress Colors as I found out with this troll and then confirmed with the barkeep. 

This time I used Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultracover Matte Clear which I find at my local Home Depot. I use this spray the majority of the time I paint a miniature that's going to be used on the tabletop - the protection against dings and scratches is top notch. However, even though it says Matte, it's not - not like the Testor's anyways (but you can respray with the Testor's on top and the result is really close to Testor's only but much more protected). 

Judging from the pictures above, there's no re-activation and washing away the paint using the Rust-Oleum product. Which is perfect - if I'm using the Xpress Color paints it's because I need the model asap for an upcoming tabletop game and my players literally have no respect for painted monsters.  They have a habit of tossing them in piles as they clear out the dungeons or worse, flicking them with their fingers to shoot them off the board - and I don't even want to describe the behavior they enact on my beautifully painted boss monster after an epic fight.

Lost Mine of Phandelver - Sildar Hallwinter

 

This model was an interesting choice for Sildar Hallwinter - definitely an older warrior which is good - it has a medieval europe meets asia flair which is a bit different - the double swords is out of character for the module as written but could work. 

I was quite pleased with how this paint scheme turned out for the minimalist style I'm using on these figures for LMoP.  Besides the tan skin tone - there are only two tones of brown - one dark the other light. The grey is used in the hair, beard, and pants. The blue in the pants and hair wrap. Black base like the others. 

This is part of the 3D Dungeon Labs Etsy shop purchase.

Sculpt: Excellent - the sculpt is well done with good detail.

3D Print: Excellent - well done - clean - no issues anywhere - very solid.

Fitness: Good - like the older man look - not a fan of the some of the other pieces to fit the storyline.

EnderToys - Rounded Hallowed Mausoleum

 

This is a good size piece of terrain and while I could put it on my Bambu Labs A1 Mini 3D printer it would cost me $12.95 for the .stl files from Printable Scenery and probably about $10 worth of filament. So in these cases EnderToys to the rescue - their prices on Amazon range from "amazing" to "you want how much" - so you have to pick and choose to what works with your budget - anything in the $10-$20 range is pretty good and as I'm typing this EnderToys has this on Amazon for $20 minus 20% = $16.

Unfortunately the piece is too big for my background paper, but it's better than seeing a messy paint booth. The painted image from Printable Scenery I thought was rather well done - so I didn't reinvent the wheel on this one but more or less gave it a go using their visual queues.

I actually painted this during the summer and used it in a Dungeons and Dragons session - I think I had some large spiders in the encounter for the party. Unfortunately I don't recall the specific colors used or the order I did it in - I just remember it taking me the good part of a Saturday for our Sunday game and that I thought it turned out way better than I was expecting for some reason.

Overall I think it's a great 3D print and can be used for all sorts of encounters from an old mausoleum buried by time in the forest with large spiders to ghosts / undead creatures in the cemetery to an ancient hilltop where a gang of villains are using the mausoleum as their hideout - in all cases there could be a trap door leading to further dungeon encounters.

3D Printed Terrain

Back in June for Father's Day my kids picked up a Bambu Labs A1 Mini 3D printer. I had a beginner one years ago and it was always more of a pain in effort than an actual printed item - wow have things changed. The A1 Mini has all the same tech as the bigger models from Bambu Labs - it just has a smaller bed size and not as high of a z-axis. However, you can still print some pretty good size pieces and it prints amazing. Find a model - hit the print button - done.

This model I found from Bambu Lab's sharing archive called Maker World - this model is:

 https://makerworld.com/en/models/71744#profileId-396654

I used the same painting technique as I did for the Lord of the Rings terrain piece - using the airbrush to spray it black and then from a 12-o'clock with a medium gray, then stipple the green, etc. The only difference being painting the ring of rocks red with a magic blue shard and green crystal shard to give it some character.

I'll have more posts in the future about 3D printing as well.

Airbrushing Thoughts

I've been keeping a google doc on some notes regarding the utilization of my airbrush and I've been wanting to share those with the public to get feedback. I actually have some updates to share but they don't necessarily make sense without posting this first - so better late than never and I'll be posting some additional thoughts in future posts which will relate back to this one.  Also, I'm definitely looking for feedback on tips, tricks, and equipment folks are using to airbrush miniatures - please leave a comment or drop me a note at my gmail address of rickajr.

 Utilization Thoughts:

• The Vallejo Game Air is working very well so far - just drop or squirt into the cup depending upon quantity needed - have used both their colored primers as well as various colors - they run through the airbrush very well without having to add any flow or thinner at this point - biggest batch was 20 models of ash zombies which was a lot of paint running through the airbrush without issue

• Each painting session starts with extracting the needle, wiping it clean on a paper towel and dipping it into the Regdab needle juice (Badger spelled backwards - there's a story about it on their website) - it appears to be working well as there hasn’t been any build-up on the needle to date

• Between colors at end of the session the airbrush cleaning process is:

• Fill airbrush cup with cleaner and spray into the cleaning pot

• Wipe airbrush cup out with paper towel

• Fill airbrush cup with cleaner and spray into the cleaning pot

• Wipe airbrush cup out with paper towel

• Fill airbrush cup up halfway with cleaner and backpressure the nozzle - then spray into the cleaning pot

• Wipe airbrush cup out with paper towel

• At the end of each painting session after cleaning the airbrush there’s always a bit of residue down in there, fill the cup with the cleaner and put the cup top on it before putting it into the holder - then spray it into the cleaning pot and wipe cup out with paper towel to start the next session prior to extracting the needle

• Understandable as to why cleaner is sold in a two pack of giant bottles - use a lot of it a cupful at a time

• Currently spraying in the garage using the folding table next to the wall as a platform with a cardboard backplate against the wall and an old sun visor shield on the table - works well - all the accessories including compressor fit into a plastic tote which can then be setup or tore down within a few minutes

• Placed the compressor on the garage lip floor by the outlet and the 10’ braided hose is plenty of reach and no issue - compressor kicks on while spraying and is rather quiet - about the sound of low conversation voice - if music is on the compressor isn’t heard - while not spraying the compressor kicks on after a bit for a few seconds to maintain the 18 psi currently set on the regulator - haven’t seen much in the way of moisture in the trap

• Getting the hang of the “dual action” of the airbrush - typically full throttle air and then lean into the paint - that works great for primer or base colors - trying to work on matching air quantity with amount of paint for subsequent layers of paint

• Picked up a new lab vortex mixer - we used this technology in the lab industry - it totally rocks - it’s quiet vs my Robart Paint Shaker which drives my dog crazy - much faster to mix (5 seconds), stays stuck to the table thanks to suction cups, and no rubber bands to break - it’s also corded and rechargeable - so easy to charge and then use at the table where there’s no outlets

• Great video about the history of Badger and the basics of airbrushing - well worth watching - it’s a paste together of two different speeches at gaming event cons - Introduction to Airbrushing with Ken Schlotfeldt (owner of Badger) - https://youtu.be/tsW-vN0_lHw

• This youtuber has a ton of good videos on independent product testing that can be referenced - https://www.youtube.com/@barbatosrex9473/videos

• Badger’s webstore - usa airbrush supply - https://usaairbrushsupply.com/

• Badger’s website - http://www.badgerairbrush.com/

Future Thoughts:

• Might want to try purchasing the super fine detail - model 41-044 needle - basically $20 

• Badger’s website for the 105 sold with all three needles

• Thier website with all three sizes - https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/pro-production-series-needlenozzle-conversion-kit-multi-pack 

• General Purpose - silver ball is medium (.7mm) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004RM2IJ8 

• Detail - blue ball is fine (.5), - https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Company-Conversion-Model/dp/B004RM2HYY 

• Super Detail - black ball is super fine (.3) - https://www.amazon.com/Badger-P-P-S-Detail-Conversion-Models/dp/B008RBFDPG

• Dick Blick website - https://www.dickblick.com/products/badger-pro-production-series-airbrush-conversion-kits/

• Badger website - https://usaairbrushsupply.com/products/p-p-s-super-detail-conversion-for-105-155-200nh-360-and-3155-models-includes-spray-reg-tip-and-needle

• Still need to play around with the Stynylrez primers - so far I’ve been using the colored primers on plastic minis - will probably wait and use on the Reaper metals

• Need some sort of project light that can attach to the desk and easily be mounted/dismounted - even better would be to have electrician run a light mount to that area and put in another set of shop lights - should check that out at Home Depot - they have fixed service prices for certified contracted services

• Better setup to capture spray and shoot it out the garage (may not even need to go out the garage - just pull the spray through a filter) - need to weigh benefit vs setup/tear-down

• If ever decide on getting a second Badger airbrush - then use quick disconnect (qd) system

• Hose - needs 51-042 qd coupler (comes with one 51-038 - need a second for second airbrush)

• Plug - male 51-038 qd plug

See Supply and Accessories on Next Page for more notes and information… 

Supply Purchases:

Product	Cost	Notes
Badger Regdab Lubricant	10.98	Regdab needle juice (airbrush lubricant) Every youtube and airbrush site rants and raves this is the best stuff Hard to find - got lucky I pull the needle and use this at the start of every session - so far I’ve had no issues so it appears to be doing the job
Evo Dyne Airbrush Cleaner	22.99	16 oz bottles in a 2 pack Best value is getting the 2 pack Not sure how it relates to others, but appears to do the job well and had hundreds of top ratings on Amazon
Badger Stynylrez White	16.20	4 oz bottle (also comes in 2 oz) Various youtube videos and paint sites for airbrushing rave that this is best airbrush primer White
Badger Stynylrez Black	11.74	4 oz bottle (also comes in 2 oz) Various youtube videos and paint sites for airbrushing rave that this is best airbrush primer Black
Vallejo Game Air Paint Set	181.43	17 ml bottles Case and 64 eyedropper bottles - 51 Game Air colors, 8 Primers, 3 Varnishes, 1 Chipping Medium, and 1 Airbrush Thinner Duplicates most of the Game Color colors A bit pricey to have a duplicate, but makes it super easy as no mixing involved I’ve used most of the primers - had difficulty with the red, but the others have been solid including black, blue, brown, and bone
Vallejo Airbrush Thinner	11.98	6.8 oz bottle Various youtube videos and paint sites for airbrushing highly recommend Haven’t used it as of yet because I’ve been using the Game Air paints exclusively
Vallejo Airbrush Flow	13.94	6.7 oz bottle Various youtube videos and paint sites for airbrushing highly recommend Haven’t used it as of yet because I’ve been using the Game Air paints exclusively
Master Airbrush Pipette	17.99	100 pipette eyedroppers Found it on a youtube video as highly recommended for determining exact quantity to mix paints, flows, thinners, etc. Haven’t used it as of yet because I’ve been using the Game Air paints exclusively
Hobby Mix Cups	7.99	100 plastic cups - 1 oz each Haven’t used it as of yet because I’ve been using the Game Air paints exclusively

Accessories Purchases:

Lab Vortex Mixer	38.00	5200 rpm vortex Mixes a paint bottle in 5 seconds Electric and battery powered Suction cups on bottom keep it in place $20 less on Walmart than Amazon Kicks the Robart Paint Shaker to the curb - much quieter, uses a vortex vs shake, no rubber bands - currently have with airbrush stuff, might purchase a second one for hobby desk convenience
Master Airbrush Cleaning Pot	13.99	Glass pot, water cap, airbrush holder Glass pot vs. plastic is nice Water cap is useless Airbrush holder is helpful - it’s not slotted for the Badger airbrush, but it works without issue Besides the little filter, I use a paper towel to absorb the discharge Have no issue with the seal - works well to point and shoot the discharge
Badger Paint Mixer	21.99	Requires 2 AA batteries Haven’t used it yet, but will fit in the bigger 4 oz bottles of Stynylrez primers which are too big to put on the paint shaker
Badger Patriot Airbrush	126.00	Model 105-1 Single .5mm (blue) needle I was originally worried about handling the “dual” action vs the simplicity of the single action - however I’ve adapted to it fairly well - still screw it up a little and give it a bit too much and still learning when to put more/less air vs more/less paint
Badger 10’ Braided Hose	33.99	10’ of distance Braided - which makes it nice and flexible Has all the correct connections for the air brush and the regulator - used white plumbers tape and haven’t had any leaks or issues
Badger Air Regulator	37.89	Comes with regulator, air gauge, and proper fittings for Badger connections and hoses Figured that I’d stick with Badger to make sure that everything worked properly I have it currently set in the 15-18 psi range per Badger’s recommendations for the airbrush Was easy enough to connect up to the compressor and the Badger threaded air hose - used white plumbers tape and haven’t had any leaks or issues Instead of using the air regulator on the compressor, Badger does sell a valve regulator for $24.61 that goes right on the line between the hose and the airbrush - it was demonstrated in use by the company owner in a youtube video at a gamecon event - downside is that it doesn’t have a moisture trap - note, that it can be used in conjunction with the air regulator whereby the regulator is run at a higher psi, and then can control at the airbrush if you need to vary the psi frequently
Badger Airstorm Compressor	192.72	Model AS180-15 Suction cups on bottom hold it into place with no movement I’ve been super impressed with this unit - quiet and I’ve used it for hours at a time without it getting hot (heard that rumor) - holding 15-18 psi is no issue - it kicks in when spraying and then holds the pressure for quite awhile before needing to kick on for a few seconds What I didn’t know at the time is that it really needs a pressure regulator - therefore I would recommend Badger TC908 Aspire which already has it and supposedly slightly upgraded - however, attaching the air regulator to this model yourself saves about $25