Sunday, November 28, 2010
Sometimes it's just difficult.
That was the theme of this miniature - which is really a shame - this was a nice Jason Wiebe sculpted (I do like his stuff) classic wizard produced for Goodman Games and their Dungeon Crawl Classics line of miniatures (which ties back to some of their D&D modules).
I try not to do the classic blue wizard - for whatever reason I've tried to stay away from that cliche. I have a yellow/red and a green robed wizard.
So I thought that I would go with Brown - starting with Scorched Brown and to keep adding Rotting Flesh for the whole model. I did - and it looked like a chocolate Hershey bar left out by the Easter bunny. Therefore I painted a different color robe, than another color, and another - a little of this and a little of that.
Basically it ended up being a salvage project. Even taking a picture of the model ended up being a disaster for some reason - it just wouldn't take - so what's above is the best I could get and provide some realistic coloring.
Updated 2010-12-31: playing around with digital macro settings and gimp software:
Saturday, November 20, 2010
Completed a miniature that I had started quite a long time ago. I had painted the skin tones and basecoated the clothing - then it sat for a long, long time - several years actually. Until now - I had a bit of inspiration - grabbed the color wheel and instead of two-color red/green I decided on a tri-color red/blue/yellow - the blue I worked into the ribbons and the yellow I used on the hair to great affect.
Painting Instructions for Kiri, Female Ninja:
Step 01: Undercoat model with black primer
Step 02: Use Dark Flesh on skin
Step 03: Add bit of Elf Flesh to Dark Flesh and build highlights on skin
Step 04: Continue adding Elf Flesh to mix until final highlight on skin
Step 05: Use Red Gore on clothes
Step 06: Use Blood Red on clothes for highlights
Step 07: Use Blazing Orange on clothes as final highlight
Step 08: Use Shadow Grey on cloth armor
Step 09: Use Space Wolves Grey on cloth armor for puffies
Step 10: Use Ghostly Grey on puffies as highlight
Step 11: Use Regal Blue on ribbons
Step 12: Use Enchanted Blue on ribbons as highlights
Step 13: Use Lighting Blue on ribbons as final highlights
Step 14: Use Scorched Brown on all leather armor, straps, and boots
Step 15: Use Bestial Brown on all leather armor, straps, and boots
Step 16: Use Snakebite Leather on all leather armor, straps, and boots
Step 17: Use Bubonic Brown on all leather armor, straps, and boots
Step 18: Use Lightning Blue on bottles
Step 19: Use Ice Blue as liquid in bottles
Step 20: Use Bad Moon Yellow on hair
Step 21: Add Skull White to Bad Moon Yellow and build highlights on hair
Step 22: Use Boltgun Metal on metal bits
Step 23: Wash metal bits with Devlan Mud
Step 24: Use Chainmail on metal bits as highlight
Step 25: Drybrush Codex Grey on stone
Step 26: Drybrush Fortress Grey on stone as highlights
Step 27: Drybrush Skull White on stone as final highlights
Sunday, November 14, 2010
While Reaper named him Sir Justin - I ran out of room and shortened it to Sir Jon. I used the same painting scheme as the two previous templar knights in my collection - 2330 and 2513.
I'm starting to feel more comfortable with each mini painted - I'd say this is as equivalent or maybe even better in some areas as the other two templar knights.